Last Updated
14 September, 2004
 

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Rebuilding the 3SGTE (continued)

Turbo Components

 
  I could now start installing some of the turbo components. I had dry-fit some of them to check for obvious problems, but now I could begin assembling the pieces permanently.
 
 
  Much of the delay I had with my turbo kit had to do with waiting for fittings and hoses. As it turns out, I never got some of the required fittings. At that point, I was exhausted from my efforts to get eXtremeBoost to provide the parts I had paid for, and simply decided to obtain the correct parts myself.
 
 
  The turbo is a Garrett GT30R, with the following specs:

Compressor
● Housing A/R = .70
● Wheel Trim = 52

Turbine
● Housing A/R = .82
● Wheel Trim = 84
 
 
  The GT30 center section has four ports for fluids. Two are coolant ports (supply and return), and these appear to be threaded for -6 AN female O-ring fittings. Adapter fittings for the coolant ports were included with my kit:
Click to enlarge.
These had -8 AN male fittings for the hoses. I also received the coolant hoses, one with a straight -8 AN fitting and one with a 90˚ -8 AN fitting.
 
 
  There are two ports for oil on the GT30 as well. The oil supply is threaded for a " - NPT reverse flare. Unfortunately, the correct fitting was not included in my kit. Luckily,  ATP Turbo carries all kinds of components for turbo installs. They provided me with the missing piece. Here's the oil supply adapter:
Click to enlarge
This adapter has a -4 AN male fitting for the oil supply hose. It also has a .035" restrictor hole in it to prevent too much oil from reaching the bearings and leaking past the seals. My kit DID include the correct oil supply line, about 18" long, with one straight and one 90˚ -4 AN fitting.
 
 
  The oil return uses a flanged adapter that connects to the center section with two M8 bolts, and is threaded for a  " - NPT fitting. I didn't receive this adapter in my kit, either, but ATP provided it, as well as the gasket.

This adapter required a hose end with a " - NPT male fitting:
Click to enlarge
 
 
  Because there is so little room on the turbo's center section, I installed the water adapters and oil supply adapter before attaching the turbo to the exhaust manifold. The oil return adapter could be installed afterward.
 
 
I hung the turbo assembly from the manifold:
Click to enlarge
 
Here's a look at the oil supply adapter, showing the restrictor hole:
Click to enlarge
 
The oil return, which is opposite the supply port, needs to be facing downward to ensure proper drainage. Due to the tight quarters, aligning the turbo sections into the correct alignment ("clocking") requires care. It would be easy to damage one of the fittings when tightening the housing bolts:
Click to enlarge
Here's the final position for the fittings. There's not a lot wiggle room when trying to make everything fit, but sometimes a difference of 1/16" is just enough. This keeps the oil return port pointing down for good drainage.
 
The oil supply line I received was about 18" long, but I only needed about 6". I thought I could use one of the existing ends, but after inspection of the assembled hose end I felt uneasy about its quality. I knew I would feel more confident if I reassembled the ends myself.

I cut the hose to about 5" long, and assembled the ends onto it. I then connected both ends:
Click to enlarge
 
  One important fitting that came with my kit was the large 90˚ adapter for the oil returning from the turbo to the oil pan:
Click to enlarge
This steel fitting has a large (M30?) fine thread male end and lock nut for the oil pan, and a -12 AN male end for the drain hose.

KO Racing offers a straight fitting for this purpose.
 
  There's just enough clearance with the lip of the oil pan to fit the adapter and hose:
Click to enlarge
The position shown should clear the A/C compressor. If not, a minor adjustment should do the trick. Since the stock catalyst will be gone, I shouldn't have any other clearance issues.
 
  Next, I attached the oil drain adapter, with a new gasket. I used socket head screws and high-temp thread lock:
Click to enlarge
This fitting uses a "-NPT thread.
 
  I cut the -12 AN hose to fit the 90˚ hose adapter I bought to fit the oil drain flange fitting. However, after assembling the hose, I discovered there was insufficient clearance to get a wrench on the hose end that fit into the flange. I removed the flange and secured it into a vise. I applied some Teflon thread sealant to the hose end and tightened it into the flange.

I cleaned off the flange bolts, applied some new thread locking compound, and reinstalled the flange adapter with the hose end already in place:
Click to enlarge
 
  I then attached the other end to the oil pan fitting:
Click to enlarge
 
  And here's the result:
Click to enlarge
 
Next came the coolant lines. Only one of the hoses in the kit had a 90 end, but I could see that I would need 90 ends on both of them, so I bought a new fitting for the other one. Just one of the many shockingly expensive hose fittings I would need before I was through.

I took one hose and attached it to the inner coolant fitting (the one facing the engine block). I had to find a way to route the hose without rubbing against other components and without bending it into too tight of a radius. The hose manufacturers say a -8 AN hose shouldn't be bent tighter than a 3
" radius (7" diameter), which is a pretty large loop. I cut the hose to length with a cutoff disk on my die grinder, and connected it to the Coolant Bypass Pipe No. 1.

I replaced the straight hose fitting on the other hose with the new 90˚ fitting, and installed it to the outer coolant fitting on the turbo. The other end was connected to the coolant outlet housing:
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
 
  After I took these photos, I bought a couple of Spectre "Magna Clamps" to use in place of the plain-jane stainless worm-drive clamps:
Click to enlarge
Unfortunately, these fancy ends take up a lot of space, so I had to mount one of them upside down. The other one barely fit on the pipe, again due to its size. I may ultimately remove them in favor of standard hose clamps, as they might be a bit too "ricey". The good news is that they cover the frayed ends of the stainless braid better than the standard clamps.
 
  There's yet another bypass hose to install, which connects the bypass pipe to the coolant outlet housing:
Click to enlarge
 
 
  Again, some soapy water helps fit this hose into position:
Click to enlarge
This hose is identified by Toyota simply as "Hose, Water By-pass", Part No. 16261-88361.
 
 
  The next step was to attach the downpipe and wastegate. I was still waiting for the turbo outlet gasket, so this was just a dry fit.

The exhaust inlet on the 46mm Tial wastegate is on the bottom, and this is attached to the exhaust manifold. The  outlet (dump) port is attached to the downpipe:
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
 
 
  There are two manifold vacuum/boost connections on the wastegate. The side port needs to be connected to the throttle body before the throttle plate. The top port will be connected to the boost controller:
Click to enlarge
 
  The turbine-to-downpipe gasket arrived a few weeks later:
Click to enlarge
I installed the gasket and tightened everything into place, using hi-temp thread sealant on the threads, and hi-temp, precipitation-hardened, stainless-steel Belleville washers:
Click to enlarge
 
 
 

Continued on next page...

 

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