Last Updated
12 November, 2004

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GReddy Intercooler Installation


I performed this installation as part of a larger project which included an APEXi AVC-R boost controller, J&S Safeguard, GReddy Oil Catch Can, and some gauges. I also installed a SPAL 7" puller fan as part of the IC upgrade. I can't imagine putting the stock fan on a new intercooler, and I doubt anyone else would, either. I installed a special circuit that would enable this fan to be energized either with ignition power or battery power, or turned off entirely. 

Because of the scope of my project, some of the photos might show more disassembly than is actually required. It's also likely that the photos don't always match EXACTLY what's in the text. As is often the case, I would have changed the sequence of a few things if I had to do it over again. 

I've not listed the torque settings for the various fasteners. I consulted the BGB on most of them, but I've also learned that the BGB has errors, and some of them refer to incorrect torque settings. I'd like to avoid any potential for someone to point their finger at my instructions as the cause of that broken or lost fastener. If I find an incorrect setting that could cause a problem, I'll mention it, but generally you should use your own experience and the BGB as the guide. If you don't have the BGB, get a set.

The materials list is specific to my project. You will likely make some choices different from my own and your list will vary somewhat. I hope I have included most of the tools, etc., required, but my memory is not what it used to be.

While most of this work was performed by myself, I did solicit the help of a friend for removal of the stock intercooler. I was trying to remove it undamaged, and this proved close to impossible for one person without removing the right-hand motor mount. It might be possible, but I took the easier route.

The photos in this guide can be enlarged by clicking on them. This will greatly improve the clarity of the area in question. 

As with most projects, many people deserve credit for providing ideas, plans, and materials. Here are a few of the direct contributors:

Marc Summers for the SPAL fan wiring ideas

Anthony Sarno for his intercooler installation write-up on MR2.com (www.mr2.com/article/greddyic_install.html)

Aaron Bunch for the SPAL fans (www.atsracing.net)

McMaster-Carr, which is an invaluable source of materials and hard-to-find items. They have an expansive selection of parts on their web site (www.mcmaster.com), they'll fill any size order, and they ship the same day 99% of the time.

Finally, remember that this is only a guide -- not gospel. What you do to YOUR vehicle is YOUR responsibility. I do not endorse, approve, authorize, or otherwise encourage you to make alterations to your vehicle. Be careful, and recognize the dangers associated with modifications to your vehicle's critical systems, like electrical, engine, brakes, etc.

Please contact me if you have comments or suggestions about the article or the project, or if you find errors on these pages.
 

  

Tools & Materials Needed


For disassembly and installation:
  • 10, 11, 12, 13, & 14mm sockets in a variety of drive sizes.

  • A very healthy assortment of socket extensions and adapters. If you've done any work on an MR2, you know that you can never have too many different sizes of extensions.

  • 10, 11, 12, 13, & 14mm combination wrenches

  • Assorted screwdrivers

  • Floor jack and jack stands

  • Optional T-Bolt hose clamps (McMaster-Carr)


For fabricating fan brackets:
  • Electric portable jig saw & electric drill (at a minimum)

  • Bench grinder

  • Bench vise

  • Bastard file and sandpaper

  • 8mm cap screws in lengths of 25mm, 30mm, 40mm, & 50mm. Also needed are lock washers, flat washers, fenders washers and rubber washers. I used stainless steel fasteners where possible.

  • Aluminum sheet stock, approximately .100" thickness


For electrical devices:
  • 30 amp automotive-type relay (Radio Shack #90-2394)

  • Optional relay socket (Radio Shack #90-2396)

  • Non-polar capacitor (Radio Shack #90-2099)

  • A 100V diode (Radio Shack #90-2955)

  • Four 10-foot lengths of various colored 18 AWG hookup wire

  • Two 5-foot lengths of various colored 14 AWG hookup wire

  • Cable sleeving (woven and convoluted) in a variety of sizes

  • DPDT Rocker switch 

  • SPAL fans 

  • Cable ties
     

Doing It

Here are the components that ship with the GReddy Intercooler kit:
IntercoolerKit.JPG (287645 bytes)
I was lucky enough to get some English-language instructions with the kit, but overall the quality of the drawings is so poor that you are pretty much on your own. I hope to provide some additional details with the photos I took.
 

Open the engine lid and remove the right side trim panel, which is held on with two Phillips screws.
 
Remove the two 14mm bolts  and two 14mm nuts securing the strut brace to the body and strut towers.
 
Remove the clamps on the turbo hoses that attach to the stock intercooler. These will all be replaced, as will the two interconnecting tubes:
Remove_IC_Hose-02.JPG (77398 bytes)
Now is also the best time to disconnect the oxygen sensor (circled in red above), its electrical connector (circled in white), the intercooler fan connector (circled in green), the A/C clutch connector (circled in yellow), and the dipstick (circled in blue). If you are going to use a new circuit for the fan, this is a good time to clip off the fan connector as well.

Make sure to tape over the openings for the oxygen sensor and dipstick tube.
 

At this point I also disconnected the main intake pipe and its mounting bracket to clean the pipe and repaint the bracket:
Remove Intake Pipe 01.JPG (87433 bytes)
I'm not certain if this is required, but it's quick and easy and gives you more room to work. It also avoids the temptation to brace yourself on the intake pipe, which wouldn't hold the weight.

I took care to cover all open pipes with duct tape to prevent anything from falling into the openings.
 

There's a lock bolt located in the center of the idler pulley wheel. This bolt must be loosened before the belt can be loosened. I was lucky, as apparently the Toyota mechanic who last worked on this did not apply much force when tightening to it. I simply applied some hand pressure to the top of the belt, and used an offset wrench (13mm?) to loosen the lock bolt. The photo below shows the difficult location of this bolt. I strongly urge you to wear some gloves to avoid skinned knuckles and/or damaged intercooler fins.
Pulley Lock Bolt-01.JPG (88467 bytes)
 
The next component that needs to be removed is the engine hanger bracket. Here's a photo of the bracket off the engine showing the mounting holes: 
Hanger Bracket 05.JPG (74319 bytes)
Seeing the bracket like this makes it a bit easier to locate the bolts when it's still mounted on the engine. Here's an in-place photo from above:
Hanger Bracket 04.JPG (80724 bytes)
There should be four 14mm bolts to remove, although as you can see in this photo one of them is missing. Two of the bolts secure the bracket to the engine, while the other two are used to secure the A/C idler pulley bracket to the hanger bracket. Remove all four and you can remove the hanger.
 
The stock intercooler fan comes off next. There are three 10mm bolts fastened to the bracket on the intercooler, one at the upper right...
Stock Fan 01.JPG (61013 bytes)
...one at the upper left...
Stock IC Fan Mount 01.JPG (77536 bytes)
...and one at the bottom:
Stock IC Fan Mount 04.JPG (65986 bytes)
Once you get the bolts out, the fan can easily be removed.
 
Here are two photos of the A/C idler pulley after removal. The first view shows the pulley as it would appear on the engine. The top bolt is the tension adjuster...
Idler Pulley 06.JPG (37949 bytes)
...while the second view shows the mounting holes more clearly:
Idler Pulley 05.JPG (36764 bytes)
 
The first step is to loosen the A/C drive belt by loosening the adjusting bolt on the idler pulley, shown below circled in red:
Idler Pulley 02.JPG (290157 bytes)
Once the belt has been loosened, remove it off the pulleys.
 
Next, remove the three 12mm bolts that retain the idler pulley. Refer to the previous photos for location. The most difficult bolt can be reached just under the coolant hose, as shown here:
Idler Pulley 03.JPG (76552 bytes)
This one proved to be problematic to reinstall.

Once the bolts are out, carefully ease the idler pulley up and away from the intercooler. My goal was to remove the stock intercooler undamaged, so it was a bit more time-consuming to remove it.
 

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